Sailing in the Virgin Islands by Sam Jefferson

The other great advantage of a catamaran is that shallow draft – at least with the daggerboards up. The British Virgin Islands have their fair share of coral reefs and shallow lagoons. Given that anchoring is also frequently the only available means of mooring if you want to explore, the prime spots and the most protected are generally close to the shore and out of the reach of most keelboats. So a multihull opens up whole new avenues for exploration.

As mentioned, there is a good deal of coral reefs about, and this is a fragile ecosystem that has already suffered much at the hands of human beings. Great care must therefore be taken when anchoring so that you don’t get fouled up in coral. Firstly, because it damages the reef but also because you may find your anchor horribly wedged. Fortunately, the water is gin clear and this means that generally, you can see precisely where you are dropping your anchor. Unlike in the Mediterranean, depths close in are often relatively moderate, with gently shelving beaches meaning you don’t generally have the Med problem of sailing in very close to the shore and still finding yourself in 10m of water. Anchorages are also sufficiently plentiful that they don’t tend to get overcrowded, and the European practice of long lining to shore is not generally carried out. There is a very modest amount of tide, but barely enough to be noticeable. Because of the consistency of the trade winds, all islands have a windward and a leeward coast. The windward side is generally wild, rugged, and surf-battered, while the leeward is calm and protected. Most islands – with the exception of Anegada, are sufficiently high to provide a decent lee for anchoring. Swells are also worth thinking about as a change in the direction of the mighty Atlantic swells can make for an uncomfortable night at anchor – or in a marina for that matter.

Navigation is generally pretty straightforward, particularly during the day and the main thing is not to get too complacent. The buoyage is imperfect at times, and there is much reliance on local knowledge, so you have to keep your wits about you. It’s worth noting that the buoyage is set up on the US system (zone B), which is precisely the opposite of what we enjoy in Europe. This is initially confusing.

One useful tip for navigating is to buy yourself a pair of polarised sunglasses. These cut out the glare of the sea and reveal exactly where the reefs are. It can often feel like the difference between night and day when you put them on.

The British Virgin Islands are dominated by the trade winds and it is fanned year round by easterly winds generally blowing between 15 and 25kn. They are predictable and make for hugely enjoyable sailing once you adjust to their strength. The British Virgin Islands do not have sufficient land mass to create significant land or sea breezes so, aside from a funneling effect in narrow straits between islands, you can generally read the wind in a manner that is much easier than in Europe.

Although the British Virgin Islands are relatively hot year-round, being in the northern hemisphere means there is significant seasonal variation, with the summer months often becoming intolerably hot. Many also talk of ‘Christmas Winds’ around December when the trade winds seem to increase in strength. The great fear is, of course, hurricane season which runs from June 1 through to November 30. Make no mistake, many still sail at this time of year but there is always the niggling fear that you may encounter some truly nasty weather. The British Virgin Islands are not particularly mountainous, so there is less rain than on some other islands, but there is always a chance of a shower or ‘liquid sunshine’ as the locals call it. The driest period is generally between December and May.

Oil Nut Bay is at the eastern end of Gorda Sound, at the northern tip of Virgin Gorda. The whole of this section of the sound is protected by a long reef, meaning that you are completely protected from the swells. As you head up to the eastern tip of the sound, the water becomes increasingly shallow until you get to Oil Nut Bay, where it is around 2m and absolutely gin clear. You can anchor here with care and enjoy superb snorkeling. Sadly, a resort was built some years back, which spoils the tranquility somewhat, but it does mean there is a bar ashore. If you’d prefer not to anchor, there are mooring buoys and a marina in neighboring Deep Bay. From there, it’s a short dinghy trip to snorkelling paradise.

While most islands in the British Virgin Islands feel like variations on a theme, Anegada is the exception. While the other islands are hilly, Anegada, well to the north, is almost entirely flat and sits just above sea level on a massive coral reef. This is the main attraction as it is teeming with marine life and has a huge area of reef to explore. The island also has a very authentic castaway feel, with life ashore limited to a very small ramshackle village called The Settlement. This has little more than a couple of bars. Be aware that you should make a cautious approach to Anegada due to that extensive reef. The easiest anchorage is off Setting Point and is marked by lateral markers. You can anchor off, or there are a handful of mooring buoys. This is a good starting point to explore the island a little. There are other anchorages off the reef if you want to get serious about exploring the aquatic life.

Situated at the southern tip of Virgin Gorda, The Baths are absolutely Iconic. This is a jumble of huge granite boulders that seem to have been thrown down from heaven onto a white sand beach. This has created a strange labyrinth between the boulders that have to be seen to be believed. It’s also a snorkeller’s delight with a selection of rock pools and passes between the rocks to explore. Given its iconic status, it attracts many tourists both by boat and by land. The best way to see it is probably by boat as you can stay the night and enjoy late evening and early morning when the trippers are gone. There are mooring buoys available in the steeply shelving bay and, although taking dinghies ashore is forbidden, there are a set of smaller buoys close in where you can tie up your tender and snorkel in.

This well-protected anchorage is hemmed in by three medium-sized islands: Eustatia, Prickly Pear, and Mosquito Island. These are fringed with a coral reef that keeps the whole sound protected from swells while also creating a superb haven for yachts. There are innumerable spots to anchor and visit, with the Iconic Bitter End Yacht Club always a popular spot to visit for dinner or a sundowner. In terms of anchorages, two excellent ones I recommend are as follows: Off the SW tip of Eustatia Island is a lovely sheltered anchoring spot in good weather surrounded by reef for snorkeling. It’s quiet here but you are only a dinghy ride away from the small bar at Saba Rock so that’s a nice option for an evening drink. Alternatively, Drakes Anchorage off Mosquito Island is suitably paradisical and offers good protection from Mosquito Island on one side and Colquhoun Reef on the other. As you can imagine, there is a lot of good snorkeling to be had here.

Situated on the northwest side of Tortola, this is a broad, well-protected bay with a superb anchorage – although it can get a tad busy at times so pick your moment (not the weekends). A few mooring buoys are available, or you can anchor on sand. Once settled in you find yourself in the archetypical Caribbean Bay, with a white sand beach fringed with whispering palms and set against a backdrop of emerald green hills. There is good snorkeling in the bay and a decent selection of bars.